PROCESS:  Grab the shortest cord to weave.  As you continue, you can

flip the piece over to make sure you are grabbing the “shortest” or next cord in succession.

Weave.  The center back and front panel’s weaving pattern (here) is 4 under, 1 over, 1 under, 1 over, 4 under.  The sleeves and sides have different weaving configurations.

Take the 4 stitches that make up the cord off the holder and place them on the right needle.

Slip those 4 cord stitches to the left needle and work them, following the pattern, with the other stitches. These are your attachment rows.

After attached, continue knitting only the cord stitches.

Place a holder or counter at the beginning of the cord section to make counting the number of rows in the cord faster. There are 40 rows in each cord for the center panel.  Count attachment sections rather than rows to be more efficient, as well.

When 40 rows are complete, follow the directions to attach to the other side followed and finally knit 40 more rows for the cord.  Cut the yarn and repeat the process!

In short, it’s get cord, attach, knit cord, attach, knit cord, cut.  Repeat.

TIPS:  NECKLINE:  Regarding stopping for the neckline:  When both sides are caught up with each other and knitted, it is time for the fun.  Follow the diagram, as the direction says.  I chose to knit the last cords all with 40 rows and I scaled them back to fit perfectly rather than count rows.   I find counting boring and can grasp a better understanding of my knitting by analyzing it.  It makes sense that there are the same number of rows for the cord at the top as you began at the bottom if you choose to count.  Here two photos so you can see the process of threading the cords per weaving pattern when you get to the neckline.

NOTES:  The directions of the pattern are so thorough, I needed only to slide this post-it to follow along.  And, once you have the rhythm, it’s pretty smooth sailing.

SUPPLIES:  Supplies specific to the project are always in a tray right next to me.  You will notice a crochet hook for picking up dropped stitches and always a measuring tape for frequent checks of measurement (the size piece that I want is actually the size piece that I am creating).  The tray offers easy clean-up as well as being organized.

It was so helpful to have a hard white surface, a flipped over tray that I placed on my lap when it came time for the weaving.  I could easily see the cords as well as manipulate the working cord with the support on my lap and under the work.  Maybe, I really needed this as the color of my yarn is on the dark side.

And, here you see the collection of pieces waiting to be sewn together.

BLOCKING:  Blocking is an art form in and of itself.  The more I knit, the more I am discovering about this finishing process.  Each and every project, as I move along, seems like I am choosing to block differently.  For this project, I sewed the side panels to the front, side panels to the back and blocked them so rather than 6 pieces, I had 2 ~ a front and a back.  Why?  I did not want these seams stretching.  I did follow the pattern directions and blocked the pieces right side down.  This indeed did form “tunnels” for hiding ends, as the designer described.   Here you see the front and back face down, on damp towels lightly sprayed with warm water.  Minimal pinning as I do not like the ‘ripple’ effect when knit is pulled by pins.  Many ends are already woven in.  Ends along seams wait until after the seams are sewn.

And, finally on sweater drying racks, the best invention known to man.

When dry, I finished sewing the pieces together, added the neck rib, and was ready for show and tell!  See post 1 for results!